Keep in mind that dogs are pack-animals, and you two become the puppy’s family. Separation from you should really be kept to a minimum. It takes a lot of time to train the puppy in the beginning, and the more time and effort you put into it from the start, the easier and quicker the puppy learns the basics.

Send us an email at and request our puppy-training manual!

Send us an email at and request our puppy-training manual!

I would not recommend that you get two puppies at the same time, it can really complicate the matter of raising them as they will be more occupied with one another than paying attention to you. I suggest you get one first, train it to where you want it to be, and then consider getting a second one. The second puppy will very often pick up the good behavior from the older one (the opposite is also the case, if the older one is misbehaved you bet the new one will pick it up immediately!)

I care A LOT for my puppies, and I really consider myself responsible for them throughout their entire life. That’s why I put a lot of effort into screening puppy-buyers to make sure their decision is well thought through and that they are prepared to stay committed to their dog its whole life. I will not sell to you if you don’t convince me that you are planning to take care of the dog for it’s entire life.

The first few weeks they stay in a separate room for mom and pups to have peace and privacy. Then I turn the radio on when they’re around 3 weeks and open their ears. Then they move into the kitchen where there’s more sounds and action (they have barely started walking at this point). When the weather allows they will come outside and after a while they will get to be around other dogs than just mom.

Take your pup with you everywhere: to the office, to dogshows, to the park and little walks around the neighborhood where they get exposed to different environments, dogs, and people. Think of the puppy as an open book with blank pages. As far as they’re concerned the world is a happy exciting place, and it’s up to you to show them that’s true. You want to fill in the pages with happy experiences from as many places and people as possible, because as the puppy grows older it gets harder and harder. The more you fill your puppy with good memories, the safer, more confident, and happier the puppy becomes. You want an outgoing puppy that will explore their environment and be open to people, and I just explained to you how you get there.

I will suggest that you start crate train your puppy when you get it home. It simplifies the housetraining process. Crate training can be great when it’s used correctly. The puppy will consider the crate his house, and be safe and comfortable there. But keep in mind that the crate is not a storage room for the puppy, and when you are home he should be with you, not in the crate. I can send you some tips on crate training later if you are interested.

The tails are already docked and the dewclaws removed when you get your puppy, this is done when they are 3 – 5 days old. The ears will be cropped on the puppy that I decide to keep. You can have the ears cropped by a veterenarian when the pup is anywhere from 10 to 14 weeks old if you decide to do this.

The Miniature Schnauzer is supposed to be ear cropped according to the American Kennel Club breed standard. You can still show a dog that’s uncropped, but it is usually easier to show a dog that is cropped. The ears does change the appearance of the dog quite a bit as seen on the picture above. The two mini scnauzers in the picture are the same age, but clearly shows the difference with or without cropped ears.

The Miniature Schnauzer originated in Germany, and can be recognized in pictures dating back to the 15th century. The breed was shown in dog shows as early as 1899. The miniature schnauser is a smaller version of the Standard Schnauzer, supposedly produced by breeding Affenpinschers and Poodles to small specimens of the Standard Schnauzer. It was not originally bred to ‘go-to-ground’ for prey like many of the other terriers, he will gladly chase rodents.

The Miniature Schnauzer’s shoulder height should be between 12 – 14 inches (or 30 – 36 cm), and the weight is about 11 to 20 lbs.

If you or someone in your family is allergic to dogs, you should try to interact with a miniature schnauser to see what reactions it triggers in your case. The Miniature Schnauzer sheds very little, and has proved to be acceptable for many who have allergic reactions to other breeds. But make sure that you spend enough time with a Miniature Schnauzer to really determine if you will be able to interact with one on a regular basis, BEFORE you decide to get one of your own. There is nothing worse than discovering that you actually are allergic to the dog AFTER you have acquired one.

All our puppies are sold on spay/neuter contracts because there is a huge over production of puppies today. Reputable breeders breed to get better dogs to show, not to sell to the public or add more puppies to an already overfilled market. By selling on spay/neuter contracts we prevent our bloodlines from ending up in the hands of puppymillers. Our bloodlines have been screened for problems for generations, which is why we can offer the kind of health-guarrantees that we do (5 years against any hereditary problem).

Because there already are too many puppies available, it becomes a great responsibility to produce a litter. Every year millions of puppies are euthanised, so as a breeder you need to be prepared to care for your puppies throughout their whole life. Responsible and reputable breeders are those who take full responsibility for their dogs, from conception onwards. This responsibility should not end when a puppy is sold. Reputable breeders offer health guarantees (years, not days), do genetic testing, and are there to offer assistance to their puppy purchasers for years to come. They should be always willing to take a dog back.

A puppy miller’s goal is to produce as many puppies as possible with nominal overhead expenses. The puppies receive minimal veterinary care if any at all, are fed poor quality food and are often kept in small cages and sheds and have even been found housed in old scrap cars. They often suffer maladjustment problems due to lack of early handling and socialization. Puppy mills often produce a number of different breeds simultaneously with little or no attention given to genetic defects or disorders which are then passed on from one generation to the next.

The majority of the breeding females spend their entire lives in small filthy cages without exercise, affection or human interaction. They have only one purpose; to produce their inventory of puppies. Cages are often stacked on top of each other, allowing excrement to flow down on top of the dogs and puppies below. These females are usually bred every heat cycle until their worn tired bodies finally give out and they can no longer produce enough puppies to make them profitable.

Not only do puppy millers sell their puppies to pet stores and brokers, newspaper advertisements, flea markets and the internet also serve as a means to move their product. Although some puppy mill operators will sell directly to the public most do not want prospective buyers to see the horrific conditions the dogs are kept in, so are more likely to sell through brokers who make the transporting arrangements to the pet stores. Most often before the age of eight weeks, the puppies are made to endure long trips to final destinations in overcrowded, dark and dirty trucks, sometimes with no food or water available. Often, many of the puppies do not survive the journey.

We, as consumers, need to take a firm stand and stop the suffering by refusing to purchase puppies from the mill industry. I know how hard it is to see those puppies in the pet store windows knowing full well you or someone you know could offer them a wonderful life, a life full of love, companionship and care, but if we are ever going to end the cruel and abusive practice of puppy mills the buck has to literally stop somewhere and it has to start with the consumer. As hard as it is, be strong and either don’t go and look at the puppies or if you do, close your eyes if only for a moment and make the connection. Envision that adorable puppy’s mother and/or father isolated in a dirty, dark barn confined to a small filthy cage left hungry, lonely and afraid. How can you possibly perpetuate the problem?

• Refuse to purchase puppies from pet shops that sell puppies from mills. Many people believe they are ‘rescuing’ a puppy when they make such a purchase. Unfortunately these pet shops classify puppies as ‘inventory’ or ‘stock’ and you will no sooner be out the door than another puppy mill puppy will replace the one you just bought. If there is a demand, puppy mills will supply!

• Pet shops that sell milled puppies must not be confused with pet supply stores that support local humane societies and shelters by setting up satellite adoption centres. Recently there have been several reputable companies that have decided to take a stand against puppy mills and refuse to buy puppies from brokers. Kudos to those companies! I personally make a point of purchasing my supplies and food from them. If you are unsure about a dog or puppies origin ask to speak with a manager and ask them to specify which animal organization they are supporting. If you are still not convinced, call the shelter for verification.

• Get in touch with a reputable breeder. Visit the breeder, take your time, get on a waiting list if possible. A puppy from a healthy breeding stock is far more valuable as it comes from bloodlines that have been screened for health problems for generations. With your puppy you will get a health warranty that lasts for years. Even though you spend a bit more purchasing the puppy, it usually turns out that you save money in the long run in veterinary fees.

• Adopt from your local shelter or humane society. There are far too many wonderful dogs without homes waiting for a second chance.

• Never adopt a puppy (or any pet) on impulse. You are making a 10-15 year commitment and such a decision should be well thought out and researched.

• Adopt a rescue dog. There is a rescue group for just about every breed of dog and there are all breed rescues for mixed breeds as well. Reputable dog rescue groups work cooperatively with humane societies, shelters and veterinarians finding homes for displaced purebred and mixed breed dogs.

• Be suspicious of classified newspaper advertisements that offer many different breeds of puppies for sale, you will most likely be dealing with a puppy miller or broker.

• Be equally wary of internet web sites that boast a variety of different puppies for sale for again, you may be connecting with a puppy mill operation.

Getting another schnauzer will be just fine – as the only thing better than a miniature schnauzer is TWO miniature schnauzers! The old one might get jealous in the beginning, but after a while they will really appreciate each other.

Don’t worry, the hair on a schnuzer will grow back. Use a different groomer next time!

You can have the tail docked shorter, but the puppy has to be under full anesthesia. Make sure you use a good vet, try to get references up front.

The white miniature schnauzer is not a real schnauzer as it is not pure bred. The breed standard for miniature schnauzer only allows the colors black, black and silver, and salt and pepper – any other color is disqualifying. Some people think it is interesting to ‘invent’ new ‘rare’ colors for the miniature schnauzer such as phantom, chocolate, teremit, and so on – these are all results of mixing different breeds and are NOT rare, but mongrels.

All miniature schnauzers are dark when they are born, and then they lighten up. If your puppy has any gray hairs behind the ears it is a dark salt and pepper. If there are only black hairs you have a black and silver, or a black if the legs are black too. When you clipper the dog she will get lighter as well.